A Simple MD Catridge Preamplifier

Phonographs are gradually becoming a rarity. Most of them have had to yield to more advanced systems, such as CD players and recorders or (portable) MiniDisc player/recorders. This trend is recognized by manufacturers of audio installations, which means that the traditional phono input is missing on increasingly more systems. Hi-fi enthusiasts who want make digital versions of their existing collections of phonograph records on a CD or MD, discover that it is no longer possible to connect a phonograph to the system.

Circuit diagram :

A Simple MD Catridge Preamplifier Circuit Diagram

However, with a limited amount of circuitry, it is possible to adapt the line input of a modern amplifier or recorder so that it can handle the low-level signals generated by the magnetodynamic cartridge of a phonograph. Of course, the circuit has to provide the well-known RIAA correction that must be used with these cartridges. The preamplifier shown here performs the job using only one opamp, four resistors and four capacitors. For a stereo version, you will naturally need two of everything. Any stabilized power supply that can deliver ±15V can be used as a power source.

Author : H. Steeman

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Simple Short Wave Transmitter Circuit

Description 

This low-cost short-wave transmitter is tunable from 10 to 15 MHz with the help of ½J gang condenser VC1, which determines the carrier frequency of the transmitter in conjunction with inductor L1. The frequency trimming can be done with VC2. The carrier is amplified by transistor T4 and coupled to RF amplifier transistor T1 (BD677) through transformer X1*. The transmitter does not use any modulator transformer.

The audio output from condenser MIC is preamplified by transistor T3 (BC548). The audio output from T3 is further amplified by transistor T2 (BD139), which modulates the RF amplifier built around transistor T1 by varying the current through it in accordance with the audio signal’s amplitude. RFC1 is used to block the carrier RF signal from transistor T2 and the power supply. The modulated RF is coupled to the antenna via capacitor C9.

Circuit Diagram:

 For antenna, one can use a 0.5m long telescopic aerial. Details of RF choke, inductor L1 and coupling RFC1 is used to block the carrier RF signal from transistor T2 and the power supply. The modulated RF is coupled to the antenna via capacitor C9. For antenna, one can use a 0.5m long telescopic aerial. Details of RF choke, inductor L1 and coupling transformer X1, we used a ready made short-wave antenna coil with tuning slug (Jawahar make), which worked satisfactorily. We tested the transmitter reception up to 75 metres and found good signal strength.

 Author: EFY Mag
Source http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/05/simple-short-wave-transmitter.html

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Simple Circuit Temperature Controlled DC Fan

Here is a Simple Circuit Temperature Controlled DC Fan primarily based on 2 transistors which will be used to control the speed of a 12 V DC fan looking on the temperature.A thermistor (R1) is employed to sense the temperature. When the temperature will increase the base current of Q1 (BC 547) will increase that in flip decreases the collector voltage of the same transistor. Since the collector of Q1 is coupled to the base of Q2 (BD 140), the decrease in collector voltage of Q1 forward biases the Q2 lot of and so do the speed of the motor. Also, the brightness of the LED are going to be proportional to the speed of the motor.

Notes.

• The R1 can be a 15K @ 20°C ,N.T.C thermistor.
• The M1 can be a 12V,700mA fan motor.
• The capacitor C1 must be rated 25V.
• The circuit can be powered from a 12V PP3 battery or 12V DC power supply.
• Assemble the circuit on a good quality PCB or common board.

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Simple Electro meter circuit

This is a simple electro meter circuit.This circuit will detect electrostatic charge from the any material such plastic,comb etc.
It can measure up to 30 cm from the target material.
To use this circuit first adjust R2 when the antenna near the material until Amp meter read 1 mA.

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Make a Simple Refrigerator Thermostat

Want to make an accurate electronic refrigerator thermostat for your refrigerator? The circuit of a solid state thermostat described in this article will surprise you with its “cool” performance. The unit once built and integrated with any relevant appliance will instantly start exhibiting an improved control of the system saving electricity and also increasing the life of the appliance.

Conventional refrigerator thermostats are expensive and not very accurate. Moreover these are prone to wear and tear and therefore not permanent. A simple and much efficient electronic refrigerator thermostat device is discussed here.

A thermostat as we all know is a device which is able to sense a particular set temperature level and trip or switch an external load. Such devices can be electromechanical types or more sophisticated electronic types. Thermostats typically are associated with air conditioning, refrigeration and water heating appliances. For such applications the device becomes a critical part of the system without which the appliance may reach and start operating under extreme conditions and ultimately get damaged. Adjusting the control switch provided in the above appliances ensures that the thermostat cuts off power to the appliance once the temperature crosses the desired limit and switches back as soon as the temperature returns to the lower threshold. Thus the temperature inside refrigerators or a room temperature through an Air conditioner is maintained to favorable ranges.

The circuit idea of a refrigerator thermostat presented here can be used externally over a refrigerator or any similar appliance to control its operation. Controlling their operation cab be done by attaching the sensing element of the thermostat to the external heat dissipating grid normally situated behind most cooling devices that use Freon. The design is more flexible and wide ranged compared to the built-in thermostats and is able to exhibit better efficiency. The circuit can easily replace the conventional low tech designs and moreover it’s much cheaper compared to them.

Let’s understand how the circuit functions:

Parts List

R1=10k NTC,

R2=Preset 10K

R3,R4=10K

R5=100K

R6=510E

R7=1K

R8=1M

R9=56 OHM/1watt

C1=105/400V

C2=100uF/25V

D1=1N4007

Circuit Description

  The diagram alongside shows a simple circuit built around the IC 741, which is basically configured as a voltage comparator.

A transformer less power supply is incorporated here to make the circuit compact and solid-state.

A bridge configuration comprising R3, R2, P1 and the NTC R1 at the input forms the main sensing elements of the circuit.

The inverting input of the IC is clamped at half the supply voltage using a voltage divider network of R3 and R4.

This eliminates the need of providing a dual supply to the IC and the circuit is able to produce optimum results even through single pole voltage supply.

The reference voltage to the non-inverting input of the IC is fixed through the preset P1 with respect to the NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient.)

In case the temperature under check tends to drift above the desired levels, the NTC resistance drops and the potential at non-inverting input of the IC crosses the set reference. This instantly toggles the output of the IC, which in turn switches the output stage comprising transistor, triac network, switching off the load (heating or the cooling system) until the temperature reaches the lower threshold.

The feedback resistor R5 to some extent helps to induce hysteresis into the circuit, an important parameter without which the circuit may keep flip-flopping quite rapidly in response to the sudden temperature changes.

Once the assembly is completed, setting up the circuit is very simple and is done with the following points:

REMEMBER THE ENTIRE CIRCUIT IS AT AC MAINS POTENTIAL, SO EXTREME CAUTION IS ADVISED WHILE GOING THE TESTING AND THE SETTING PROCEDURES. USE OF A WOODEN PLANCK OR ANY OTHER INSULATING MATERIAL UNDER YOUR FEET IS STRICTLY RECOMEMDED; ALSO USE ELECTRICAL TOOLS WHICH ARE THOROUGHLY INSULATED NEAR AND AROUND THE GRIPPING AREA.

You will need a sample heat source accurately adjusted to the desired cut-off threshold level of the thermostat circuit.

Switch on the circuit and introduce and attach the above heat source with the NTC.

Now adjust the preset so that the output just toggles (the output LED comes on.)

Remove the heat source away from the NTC, depending upon the hysteresis of the circuit the output should switch off within few seconds.

Repeat the procedure many times to confirm its correct functioning.

This concludes the setting up of this refrigerator thermostat and is ready to be integrated with any refrigerator or similar gadget for an accurate and permanent regulation of its operation.

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How to Make a Simple Piezo Buzzer Circuit Piezo Electric Buzzer Explained

In this article we will learn how to make a very simple piezo electric buzzer using hardly any electronic components. Just a single transistor, a coil, a piezo buzzer are enough to make it “buzz” or rather “twit” for you, with an output that may be quite ear piercing.

Circuit Description:

The buzzer circuit described here actually works in a quite unique way. Instead of the normal working concept employed by other forms of oscillators which require resistor and capacitor networks for generating the oscillations, this circuit use inductive feedback for the required operations.

Referring to the figure we find that the transistor T1 along with the inductor forms the heart of the circuit. Basically the coil which is specifically called the buzzer coil, is in fact positioned for amplifying the created oscillations while the actual feed back is provided by the center tap of the three terminal piezo element used for the present application.

When a voltage is introduced in the circuit, the transistor conducts, operating the piezo element across the buzzer coil, however this also leads to the grounding of the base of the transistor through the center tap of the piezo element, this instantly switches off the transistor and in turn the piezo also switches off, releasing the base of the transistor.

 The transistor reverts to its original state and the cycle repeats, generating oscillations or the required “buzzing” frequency.

The center tap from the piezo transducer plays an important role in sustaining the oscillations and therefore in this particular design we need a three terminal piezo rather than a two terminal one.

The oscillations produced at the collector of the transistor is dumped into the coil, saturating the coil with magnetic inductions. The coil kicks back the stored energy during the oscillations, magnifying the generated AC across it.

This stepped up AC is applied across the anode and the cathode of the piezo element, which starts vibrating sharply according the pitch of the frequency, generating a shrill, ear piercing sound in the air.

However to make the sound audible at maximum intensity, the piezo transducer needs to be stuck or installed in a special way inside its housing.

For this particular application the piezo element needs to be stuck at the base of its housing which must consist of a hole having a diameter of about 7 mm. 

The piezo element cannot be stuck directly over the base of the housing, rather it must stuck and positioned over a soft, pure rubber ring, having diameter 30 % less than that of the piezo transducer.

Only if the above fixing procedure is followed, the buzzer will sound, otherwise the sound may get choked and fail to reproduce.

 Parts List

R1 = 100K,
R2 = 4k7,
T1 = BC547,
L1 = Buzzer inductor,
PZ1 = Piezo element, 27mm, three terminal
Rubber ring = 22mm

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Simple Light Switch

This is a light switch or light activated relay circuit.The relay on when LDR uncoverd and relay off when LDR covered.Adjust VR1 for light sensitive.LED will turn on at the same time with relay

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A Simple Function Generator

This is a simple function generator circuit that can produce the following waveforms: square wave, triangular wave, and sine wave.

   

The circuits main components are two 1458 ICs.  The 1458 is a dual op-amp IC, i.e., an IC that houses two op amps inside it.  The circuit uses four op amps, two from each 1458.

  

The bottom-most op amp in Figure 1 is configured as an astable multivibrator, which continuously generates a square wave.  Assume that C1 has no charge initially. The voltage at the inverting input is zero, while the voltage at the non-inverting input is very slightly positive (a ratio of the op amps output offset voltage as determined by R1 and R2). This minute voltage difference at the inputs is enough to cause the op amps output to swing to high.

  

When the output becomes high, C1 starts charging up. The voltage at the inverting input soon exceeds that at the non-inverting input, forcing the output to swing to low, which discharges C1 again.  At a certain point, the voltage at the non-inverting input exceeds that at the inverting input again, and the output of the op amp goes high again.

   

This cycle wherein the first op amps output swings between low and high goes on indefinitely, generating the square wave.

  

The two middle op-amps are both configured as integrators. The input to the second op amp is the square wave output of the first op amp.  Being configured as an integrator, this op amp outputs a triangular wave (the integral of a square wave), as shown in Figure 1. 

    

The triangular wave output of the second op amp is then fed into the third op amp, which is also configured as an integrator.  The output of the third op amp is a sine wave (the integral of a triangular wave).

   

The sine wave output of the third op amp is fed into the fourth op amp, which is configured as an inverting amplifier. The output of this last op amp is also a sine wave but opposite in phase as its input. link

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Simple L200 Charger

This circuit came about as the result of an  urgent need for a NiMH battery charger. No  suitable dedicated IC being immediately to  hand, the author pressed an L200 regulator and a 4.7 kΩ NTC thermistor into service.  Those components were enough to form the  basis of a charger with a cut-of f condition  based on cell temperature rise rather than  relying on the more common negative delta-V detection.

L200 Charger Circuit Diagram :

The circuit uses the L200 with the thermistor in the feedback loop. When ‘cold’ the  output volt age of the regulator is about 1.55 V per cell; when ‘warm’, at a cell temperature of about 35 °C to 40 °C, the out-put voltage is about 1.45 V per cell and the  thermistor has a resistance of about 3.3 kΩ.  This temperature sensing is enough to pre-vent the cells from being overcharged. P1  adjusts the charging voltage, and R2 limits  the charge current to 320 mA. The IC is fitted with a small 20 K/W heatsink as it dissipates around 1.2 watts in use.

The charger circuit can be connected permanently to the battery pa ck . Charging  starts when a ‘ wall wart ’ adaptor is connected to the input of the charger. The unregulated 12 V supply used by the author  delivered an open- circuit voltage of 18 V,  dropping to 14 V under load. Even though  the charge voltage is reduced when charging is complete, the cells should not be left  permanently on charge.

The author uses the circuit to charge the battery in a torch. After three years and some 150  charge cycles the cells are showing no signs of losing any capacity.

Link : http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2012/08/l200-charger-circuit.html

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a simple DC voltage booster

Joule Thief: a simple DC voltage booster

A joule thief circuit lit from a 0.5V AAA battery. Click to enlarge.

A Joule thief is a simple circuit that acts as a DC to DC booster, raising a supply voltage by several volts. In this iteration it uses the exhausted voltage of a alkaline battery and boosts it enough to light a blue LED that requires 2.8V to light. With an otherwise dead 0.5V AAA battery, it will light a blue LED and run for days, using (at the moment) just under 2mA of current. Its much much dimmer than using a fresh battery or running the LED with a proper current through it. Giving the Joule thief circuit 3V from two fresh batteries pulls 75mA through the LED, making it very, very bright and probably short-lived.

A schematic is below. The circuit works like this: When first turned on, current flows into the inductor and produces a magnetic field in the toroid. While this is happening, no voltage appears at the base of the transistor, so the transistor remains off. The LED sees at first no voltage and while the inductor fills up, it only sees a maximum voltage of the battery, which is not enough to pass the diode. Once the inductor is charged, the battery voltage appears at the base of the transistor, turning it on. This allows the right side of the inductor to want to dump the energy it has stored in its magnetic field as quickly as possible, and this gives us a high-voltage that appears across the inductor. When that voltage exceeds 2.8V the LED turns on and lights up until the voltage drops below, triggering the sequence to begin again. I measured the frequency of the on/off oscillation and it seems to run at about 34kHz; the multimeter said between 68 and 72kHz but a radio showed there was 34kHz signal as well, which I assume was the fundamental (and the 68kHz one a harmonic). It did change in frequency a bit while on.

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